Kansas native, Brad Kilgore, supposedly began his cooking career at age 12 flipping pancakes and making French toast at a local diner. Fast forward a few decades and Kilgore is now the head of a small, Miami-based restaurant empire. He’s achieved quite a few accolades over the years, including having been named 2016’s “Best New Chef in America,” by Food & Wine Magazine.
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When we heard he had opened a new place in the Wynwood Arts District, called “MaryGold’s” — which you’ll find at the base of the Arlo Hotel (2217 NW Miami Ct., Miami) — we thought we’d give his latest addition a try. Now according to its website, the name is “inspired by the classic, yet eclectic and carefree personality one might find in a cosmopolitan city. Cultured, worldly and well-traveled, while remaining true to her roots, Mary G's is a muse for the ‘New Wynwood.’”
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“Muse?” Even though the use of that word struck us as audaciously “amusing,” we arrived ready to be “inspired.” And first up was the “Honeynut Squash — Smoked pecan praline, pumpkin seed duqqa” ($18; pre-tax/tip). While technically a “fruit,” (because it has seeds and comes from a flowering plant), it’s prepped like a vegetable and is often puréed, roasted, sautéed, used in braises, soups, stews, and even desserts. A byproduct of genetic engineering, it’s loaded with vitamin A and beta-carotene, and imparts a “nutty,” “buttery,” “caramel-like,” flavor.
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While we gobbled up Kilgore’s version of this dish, and enjoyed it immensely, we hated his price point. We thought $23 (approx.; post-tax/tip) for this small item was a bit excessive and deducted points accordingly. But it still rated an impressive “B-.”
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See, now there’s an example of a dish not getting squashed by us!
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