THEIR "DAMN GOOD LOBSTER MAC N CHEESE" WASN'T DAMN GOOD
A friend wanted to go to “Warren – American. Whiskey. Kitchen,” which you’ll find at 15084 Lyons Road, in Delray Beach (FL).
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While the restaurant website is mysteriously bereft of information, it’s said to house one of the largest whiskey libraries in the South Florida area.
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Its parent company, Damn Good Hospitality, (which is based out of Fort Lauderdale), claims that Warren’s “ingredient-driven menu offers our spin on traditional American dishes.” In fact, they even claim that “Warren offers a Spiritual experience that you won’t find anywhere else.”
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We reached out to our spirit guide, (which on the day in question took the form of our server), who suggested that we start with the restaurant’s “DAMN GOOD LOBSTER MAC N CHEESE — cavatappi, mornay sauce, Maine lobster, bread crumb gremolata” ($28 pre-tax/tip).
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Now, Ina Garten, an American author, and host of the Food Network program known as “Barefoot Contessa,” makes her version using vegetable oil, milk, unsalted butter, all-purpose floor, Gruyere cheese, Cheddar, pepper, salt, nutmeg, lobster meat, breadcrumbs.
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Given all that cheese and butter, most expect this dish to be rich and creamy, punctuated with generous chunks of savory lobster, but that’s not what we got here. While we question the genius who came up with the idea of placing a lobster shell, front and center, peering at diners while they sample the dish, it’s best you do not stare into the dead crustacean’s eyes, as it died for naught. And its spirit will certainly haunt you (particularly after you fork over some $34 post-tax/tip).
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Because we found the pasta dry, the “sauce” unexciting, and the lobster unforgivably chewy, the spirit moved us into giving this disembodied dish a (generous) “C-.”
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Forget the spirit talk. The only thing I’d summon here … is the check.
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