BADLY BRAISED BEEF
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Not only were we disheartened that the place hadn’t improved since our last visit, (some ten years ago), and that our tuna and cauliflower appetizers — which were part of a 3-course “restaurant month” promotion ($45 pp pre-tax/tip) – had scored an “F.” But we were getting apprehensive about the entrees, which included a choice of “Pork Schnitzel, Jalapeno-Agave Glazed Salmon, Braised Short Rib,” or “Freebird (chicken).”
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Now according to its website, this “non-conformist” establishment affords its “food, atmosphere, and staff’s artistic license, so to speak, to explore beyond the normal convention.” That kind of liberty may not be a good thing, particularly when you’re working with basic “comfort food” dishes like their “Braised Short Rib – Mashed Potatoes, Smoke Tomato Jam, Natural Gravy.”
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This offering should not only be fork-tender, but infused with a deep, earthy-rich essence. Celebrity chef Tom Colicchio likes to braise his meat in chicken stock, to which he adds red wine and an array of vegetables and aromatics that yield a rich and (not-too) sweet sauce. But that’s not we what got here. Our dish was inexplicably devoid of flavor and the protein also had a strange texture. Instead of being tender, ours had a “stringy,” “gritty,” quality.
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Because we liked nothing about this item, it rated an “F.”
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I would never offer you a bogus beef ….
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