You’ll find a new “Mediterranean-inspired restaurant and bar” at the base of the “Paramount” condo complex (at 701 North Ft. Lauderdale Beach Blvd) in Fort Lauderdale.▫️
Called “MOREA,” the establishment’s purpose (according to its website) “is to bring a vibrant, playful energy to the Ft. Lauderdale neighborhood bursting with Mediterranean freshness and honest ingredients paired with dynamic cocktails and impressive wines. This oceanfront restaurant sets the intention of relaxed luxury.”
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While we’re not sure what that last sentence means, we did find the place beautifully designed and nicely appointed, with many of the tables offering direct views of the Atlantic Ocean. But, regrettably, humans can’t thrive on scenery alone, some form of sustenance is essential … and that’s where this new establishment falters.
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Our waiter suggested that we start with the BEET-CURED SALMON (GF) – corn puree, puffed farro, herbs ($15). Now this dish isn’t terribly complex. Celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay suggests grinding coriander seeds and adding them to a bowl containing salt, sugar, and grated beets. (Zest two oranges.) Then take that mixture, rub it all over the fish, pack in a plastic bag, and refrigerate for at least six hours. Prior to serving, rinse the salmon with cold water, and there you have it.
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Some say the beets should impart a subtle earthy flavor, but this thing looked and tasted like salami or a cured ham. It wasn’t what we were expecting, nor did we enjoy it. Because the accompaniments (like the corn puree and puffed farro) weren’t bad, they spared the dish from earning a fail.
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Given its “C+” score, we were certainly deterred by this offering … but definitely not beeten.
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